Paris Couture Ss25: Cultural Echoes And Designer Debuts From Miss Sohee To Valentino
Essential details on the Spring/Summer 2025 haute couture collections revealed.
While last year's haute couture shows were overshadowed by the excitement of the Paris Olympics, the Spring/Summer 2025 season has successfully shifted the focus back to fashion. Adding to the season's momentum, The Louvre has launched its inaugural major fashion exhibition, "Art and Fashion: Statement Pieces," celebrating the oldest tradition of fashion. The exhibition features over 100 looks and accessories from 45 renowned designers, including Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, and the legendary Cristóbal Balenciaga.
As The Louvre reflects on haute couture's rich history, the runway shows in Paris from January 27 to 30 will offer a glimpse into the future of the craft. One of the season’s most anticipated names is Alessandro Michele, who will present his debut haute couture collection for Valentino on January 29. London-based designer Sohee Park, the founder of Miss Sohee, has also been selected by the Fédération de la Haute Couture to showcase her collection as a guest designer. Jean Paul Gaultier, following his collaboration with Nicolas Di Felice of Courrèges last season, has invited Ludovic de Saint Sernin to create a one-off couture collection for his house.
In a slight departure from tradition, Iris Van Herpen will not be presenting this season. The innovative Dutch designer has announced that she will now present her haute couture collections only once a year, in July. Meanwhile, Chanel’s haute couture collection, scheduled for January 28, will be presented by the in-house design studio, not Matthieu Blazy, who will take over as the brand's artistic director in October 2025.
The calendar still includes top-tier brands like Schiaparelli, Dior, and Giorgio Armani, so there’s much more to come. Stay tuned for updates on the Spring/Summer 2025 haute couture shows in Paris.
At this season's Paris Couture Week, Sohee Park of Miss Sohee also made her debut as a guest designer. For Park, presenting her Spring/Summer 2025 haute couture collection was a dream come true. Reflecting on her roots, she shared how a Chanel show by Karl Lagerfeld, when she was a student in Seoul, first sparked her love for haute couture. It must have been a full-circle moment for Park to present her show at the Hôtel Pozzo di Borgo, the 18th-century mansion where Lagerfeld once lived. On the runway, models, including Coco Rocha, showcased opulent corseted designs and evening gowns that embodied glamour and femininity, reflecting the essence of Park's designs since she launched Miss Sohee in 2020. Her work also pays homage to her South Korean heritage, with silhouettes and volumes inspired by the traditional hanbok dress. This season, she collaborated with South Korean artisans to create stunning pieces with mother-of-pearl inlay, including a slinky white gown with a croc-effect façade. Park, who has already captured the attention of celebrities like Ariana Grande, Anya Taylor-Joy, and Bella Hadid, has proven herself a strong contender in the world of haute couture, and her growing client base suggests her label will continue to thrive.
Valentino's Alessandro Michele also made a statement with his debut haute couture collection for the Italian fashion house. Drawing inspiration from Umberto Eco's "The Infinity of Lists," Michele explored the endless possibilities of fashion through a series of 48 dresses. Each design was a unique, extravagant creation, incorporating maximalist elements like voluminous ballgowns, dramatic capes, and vibrant color palettes. The opening gown, with its bold colors and harlequin-patterned skirt, paid homage to Valentino’s 1992 Alta Moda collection while also showcasing Michele's distinct vision. The collection was rich in references to history, art, and culture, underscoring Michele’s ability to marry personal expression with the storied legacy of Valentino.
Chanel, celebrating its 110th year of haute couture, presented a collection at the Grand Palais that ranged from soft pastel opening looks to fiery red evening gowns, with celebrities like Blackpink’s Jennie and Kylie Jenner gracing the front row. The collection's color palette transitioned from day to night, culminating in ethereal white gowns. The intricate detailing in the designs included soft chiffon and stylish tweed, while the final looks featured breathtaking couture wedding gowns and caftans.
Giorgio Armani marked a milestone with his 20th anniversary Armani Privé collection, "Lumieres," held at his Palazzo Armani salon in Paris. The collection was a testament to Armani's fascination with diverse material cultures, incorporating influences from India, China, and Japan. The delicate micro-pleated gowns and floral-embroidered ensembles sparkled with crystals, beads, and opulent textures. The collection's finale featured a stunning crystal-embellished caftan jacket worn by the designer’s 90-year-old muse, celebrating the beauty of light and illumination.
Schiaparelli’s Spring/Summer 2025 haute couture show, designed by Daniel Roseberry, featured extravagant silhouettes inspired by baroque and old-world craftsmanship. Tight corsets, embellished with pearls, feathers, and intricate embroidery, highlighted the collection's maximalist aesthetic. Schiaparelli’s rejection of simplicity in favor of opulence was evident in the lavish use of fabrics such as duchess satin and tulle.
Dior, led by Maria Grazia Chiuri, drew inspiration from surrealism and themes of transformation. The collection featured whimsical designs, including corsets and cage skirts, paired with romantic lace, sheer fabrics, and dramatic puff sleeves. Chiuri’s designs evoked a sense of transition, mixing references to iconic pieces from Dior’s past with a fresh, punk-infused sensibility.
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